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London-based fashion brand COS is evolving its design process, looking to elevate the brand image and product offering.
Following the appointment of Daniel Herrmann as managing director last year, COS is fostering a culture of inclusion and cross-functional collaboration guided by attentive leadership, instrumental in bringing each collection to life. The brand is also doubling down on fabric innovation and design principles that consider the lifecycle of each product.
Founded in 2007, the global fashion label offers clothing and accessories at more affordable price points but penetrates spaces typically reserved for more luxury offerings. COS has previously shown at London Fashion Week and is currently in its fourth consecutive year at New York Fashion Week. Ranking third in Lyst’s hottest brand index in the third quarter of this year, COS was the only non-luxury label to appear in the top 10.
All functions at COS work together to ideate and deliver each collection. The brand seeks to leverage the unique strengths of its departments and streamline workflows leading to each new collection and product launch.
Now, The Business of Fashion sits down with COS’ head of pattern, George Ormerod, junior designer, Helen Nguyen, and global fabric developer, Roxana Birsan, to learn more about how the brand is fostering a culture of cross-functional collaboration to deliver a wardrobe of affordable ready-to-wear and accessories for men and women.
George Ormerod, head of pattern
What role do you play in developing each seasonal collection at COS?
As a creative pattern team, our main role is to work with design in translating their vision into three-dimensional, functional garments that complement the body. Draping is a deeply creative process — the fabric’s shapes and flows emerge naturally, much like a sculpture taking form from clay. I like to drape on the stand directly from a sketch, interpreting the lines and proportions as I go. It’s satisfying to see the clothes come to life this way.
I think of this process as a conversation between the designer and the pattern cutter, with each responding to the other’s input at every stage. The craft and skill required to do this well take years of dedication and practice. Fortunately, our team takes great pride in continuous learning and is always looking for opportunities to grow.
How would you describe the working culture at COS?
At COS, it’s a really supportive, inclusive environment — my managers always encourage me and help me achieve what I need to do. I am given the freedom to set projects, get on with them, and investigate them independently, while also working across different departments to find the information I need.
There’s also quite a flat hierarchy, which makes it easy to connect with people from different departments. You can reach out directly, book meetings and have conversations with whoever you need; it feels open and collaborative.
In my role, I work closely with different teams on a regular basis. Size and fit are big topics that connect many departments, whether that’s working with the online team on how we communicate size and fit to customers or collaborating with the design team on the actual garment fittings. Internally, we separate those two ideas — size and fit — but often they are talked about as one. We’ve done a lot of work to define them more clearly.
How do you mentor or support junior pattern makers on your team?
I’ve been at COS for three years now, and part of my role when I arrived was to rebuild the pattern team. That’s when we introduced the senior pattern cutter role. We now have senior pattern cutters in every department, and part of their role is to mentor junior staff.
Each senior has a junior pattern maker assigned to them, and they work closely together — the juniors can ask questions, learn what works and what doesn’t, and get real guidance on how to grow and move forward in their careers.
When I was hiring the senior layer, I focused on people who had worked manually — those with decades of experience draping or cutting patterns by hand. That craft knowledge is invaluable and I wanted to pass it down to the newer generation.
It flows the other way too: the best ideas often come from junior team members across departments. It’s great to have openness where junior staff can communicate ideas and improvements to the workflow. It shows how collaborative the culture is — no matter your level, everyone’s input is valued and can make a real difference.
What excites you most about the future of working at COS?
It’s the constant opportunity to improve and do things differently. COS facilitates my desire to look for opportunities — finding areas where we can make changes or innovate.
For example, recently I’ve been working with the online team on a project to help customers find the right size the first time, which is exciting. I’m hopeful it will have a strong impact.
Helen Nguyen, junior designer
How would you describe the working culture at COS?
The culture at COS is creative and collaborative, driven by a shared passion for style, innovation and storytelling. Whether you are new or have been with the brand for years, everyone’s voice is valued and there’s a strong sense of purpose that comes through in how people work and carry themselves.
Within teams, everyone brings a unique perspective, and there’s an openness to sharing ideas, offering feedback and celebrating successes. It creates a positive, supportive environment that encourages creativity and collaboration.
Across the wider business, there’s a real commitment to inclusivity, with initiatives focused on wellbeing, diversity and professional development. Being part of this culture inspires me to bring my best to every project — it’s a place that values creativity, personal growth and continuous learning, which keeps me motivated and evolving as a professional.
How do you collaborate with senior designers and other teams when developing new pieces?
In my role on the runway team, I work across multiple product categories — from ready-to-wear and accessories to shoes — so collaboration is central to the process.
We usually start with a direction from the design director and product team, then I work with senior designers to exchange ideas and develop concepts further. We often take inspiration trips or attend fairs to explore new textures and materials, as well as ways to bring sustainability and innovation into our designs.
Once the brief is defined, I begin researching and translating ideas into 3D through draping and sketching. After sketch reviews with the design director, I collaborate closely with our pattern cutter to refine construction and functionality. I also work with the product developer on finishing details and fabrications with the fabric team when developing new materials.
Within teams, everyone brings a unique perspective, and there’s an openness to sharing ideas, offering feedback and celebrating successes.
— Helen Nguyen
We have weekly design catch-ups where senior designers provide feedback and mentorship, helping ensure the work aligns with our design principles while encouraging creativity and independence. Outside the core team, we collaborate with e-commerce to ensure product descriptions and details are accurate, and with styling to refine fit and presentation for lookbooks or runway shows.
What role do you play in developing each seasonal collection?
As a junior designer, I play quite a big role. I’m involved in designing, researching, sketching and draping. I also handle the more technical side, including creating tech packs for suppliers and participating in fittings.
One of the most rewarding parts of my role has been getting the opportunity to take ownership of various capsule collections and, most recently, stepping up to design a bigger part of the women’s runway collection. That has boosted my confidence as a designer.
Knowing that my mentors and senior management believe in my abilities — even as a junior — has been really motivating. They are always pushing me to take on new challenges and continue growing. I think that has helped me develop a good overview of the whole collection and an understanding of how everything comes together.
What excites you most about the future of working at COS?
I’m looking forward to working on new projects and learning new skills. I’m also excited to explore innovative materials and ideas, embracing both the challenges and opportunities that come with my role.
Roxana Birsan, global fabric developer
How does COS foster connections between teams across different departments?
So many teams are involved in everything that’s being developed. In my team, we work with design to share aesthetic ideas, with buying to discuss target prices and limitations, and with sustainability to make sure we are aligned with our goals and processes.
Every department has its input — from pricing to sustainability to design — and by working together, we make sure the final product meets all the requirements and is developed through the right, sustainable processes.
COS fosters these connections across departments mainly through meetings and casual conversations. We always involve different teams in the creation process because that’s the only way to reach a good end result.
What was a highlight of executing one of COS’s latest collections?
One interesting development was a vintage-inspired garment we created for the winter collection. We developed it from scratch, starting only from an image — the supplier hadn’t even seen the actual garment.
We worked on developing the fabric from that reference. Sometimes fabrics look beautiful at first, but once you start shaping them, they don’t perform well and you have to start over. Luckily, this time the fabric worked perfectly. It fit three or four styles in the collection, and everyone — the team, management — loved it.
That success gave us a new challenge for the next season: to keep the same look and adapt it for summer. It was great feedback because it showed that the concept worked, and we believed in the fabric enough to continue developing it with a lighter, summer feel.
Sometimes we find a fabric we love, but it doesn’t meet our sustainability goals. Then we have to go back, look for alternatives, and work closely with suppliers to find fibres that maintain the same look, performance and quality. It can be difficult, but that’s the direction we want to go — to reduce the industry’s impact on the planet.
How does COS facilitate collaboration between teams in different countries?
At COS, collaboration across regions is key to creating the quality and consistency that define our collections.
We always involve different teams in the creation process because that’s the only way to reach a good end result.
— Roxana Birsan
My role sits at the intersection of design and production, translating creative direction into technical possibilities. As I am physically present with suppliers in Italy, I can interpret the design team’s vision directly through fabrics — experimenting, adjusting and problem-solving in real time. Our open dialogue is built on trust and shared craftsmanship, and a close connection is what brings the COS vision to life in each material we develop.
Although I spend most of my time in Italy, I travel regularly to London to work closely with our design and buying teams. That rhythm — moving between the mills and our design studio — allows for a constant exchange of ideas.
What excites you about the future of working at COS?
Many things! The brand continues to evolve creatively while staying true to its timeless design values, and I love the seamless blend of innovation and craftsmanship — ultimately creating a place where design truly has purpose.
Material use is another exciting area. A few years ago, we created a limited collection made from production waste — we took leftover wool materials from our garment makers, brought them back to Italy, and used them to create a new yarn, new fabric, and new styles.
I love being part of a team that values quality and is constantly exploring new ways to make fabrics both beautiful and lasting.
This is a sponsored feature paid for by COS as part of a BoF partnership.
