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How Nili Lotan Is Finding Growth in a Crowded Market

On track to generate $150 million in sales this year, the New York label is entering footwear for the first time as it looks to expand beyond its signature wardrobe staples.
Nili Lotan boots
Nili Lotan's first footwear collection includes five Western boot silhouettes in black leather and suede, and a pair of sneakers. (Nili Lotan)

Nili Lotan, the New York-based contemporary brand known for its edgy take on wardrobe staples, is unveiling its take on footwear next week, a collection of mostly boots — despite the heat wave that’s scorching its hometown.

“My clients want [footwear], and so as honest as authentic as I can be, I went with what I wear, and I’ve been wearing Western boots for years,” said Lotan, creative director and chief executive of her namesake label. The full capsule includes five boot silhouettes in black leather and suede, and a pair of sneakers.

Since launching her label in 2003, Lotan has remained steadfast in her vision for well-crafted, no-fuss separates priced accessibly compared to similar luxury wares: signature trousers from the brand cost around $400, compared to more than $1,000 for The Row.

It was this conviction for practical dressing that attracted major windfall for the business in the years following the pandemic, fuelled by the “quiet luxury” trend and a shopper who had a voracious appetite for newness.

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While other brands struggled to meet that demand due to supply chain disruptions, Lotan’s largely domestic manufacturing allowed her to replenish orders very quickly. “That was a smart decision of how to navigate the times after Covid in terms of consumer behaviour,” she said. “Other people really underestimated demand.”

The brand reached $100 million in sales in 2022, and is slated to generate $150 million this year, up 25 percent from 2025. This growth will be driven by continued category expansion, international scaling and a new focus on affiliate marketing.

Finding Growth Opportunities

To ignite growth, the brand has launched accessories, swimwear and a resort line in recent years. The success of the handbag line, which launched last year, paved the way for footwear, Lotan added.

Nili Lotan will also open four new locations this year, including two in South Korea and a concept store in New York, bringing its total footprint to 12 by the end of the year. International sales now make up nearly 20 percent of the business overall, driven by direct-to-consumer sales.

This year, the company will also be investing more in affiliate marketing, including influencer commerce and deepening its relationship with ShopMy, an affiliate platform that allows content creators to monetise recommendations.

“Affiliates started a long time ago but I think understanding it and surrendering to it took a moment,” Lotan said. “At the end of the day, I think a lot of women today need recommendations in order to buy something.”

For the most part, however, Lotan said she relies on an intuitive approach to building the business, relying on her own instincts over market signals when deciding where and how to expand.

“The space is so crowded that there is no opportunity if you look at it on paper,” she said. “But if you stay honest to your brand, and you really analyse it from, ‘Ok, what is it that the woman who buys Nili needs?’ then I can find the opportunity.”

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About the author
Cathaleen Chen
Cathaleen Chen

Cathaleen Chen is Retail Editor at The Business of Fashion. She is based in New York and drives BoF’s coverage of the retail and direct-to-consumer sectors.

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