Estée Lauder Raises Outlook, Buoyed by Perfume Demand
Demand for the US conglomerate’s luxury fragrance brands like Le Labo, Tom Ford and By Kilian offset weaker performance from its makeup and haircare divisions.

Whatever zeitgeist he tapped into with his new Givenchy menswear collection it all spoke to Riccardo Tisci moving on — tiring of the Gothic darkness, looking for the positive light.

Haider Ackermann's reconciliation of discipline and indulgence at Berluti promised to be one of the highlights of the men’s week in Paris. The fact that his throngs of fans were undeterred in their adoration suggested that he managed to pull off the balancing act.

The Lemaire collection's boxy new proportion gave the clothes a slight, sensual slouch and the palette was all sorts of new colours for the designer.

This week brings Ackermann’s debut at Berluti, the all-black invitation the very antithesis of the appetite for excess he paraded in his own collection. Maybe that’s why it felt more exaggerated than before, infused with a sense of flagrant release to counter his new more sober responsibilities.

The collection was a completely Margielian celebration of raw hems and unstructured classicism — keeping the house's menswear closer to the style of Martin himself.

The men’s collection Jonathan Anderson presented at Loewe looked like the detritus of a world fallen apart, reconstituted with a humanistic faith in the transformative power of the human hand. How uplifting is that?

Virgil Abloh's giant mohair picture sweaters and collaged graphic transfers paid homage to Raf Simons, with just the kind of dystopian Clockwork Orange appeal that is so relevant right now.

The juxtapositon of elements which is essential to the brand's vocabulary got amplified, exaggerated and even distorted. For sure it looked lively and energetic, yet sometimes it lacked the claity Abe is so good at.

There was a hard edge that was something new for Van Noten — an emphasis on strong shape rather than rich decoration. It felt defiant and that certainly felt right for now.

The older Yohji Yamamoto gets, the punker and punker his attitude towards sartorial matters and life gets.

Rick Owens felt he’d been earnest enough with his previous collections and that it was time to wallow in beauty. But as artificial and decadent as his new forms wanted to be, they broadcast a message of protection for the hard times ahead.

Takahashi succeeds in updating and evolving the Miyake ethos and heritage, though the prints should have been edited out.
Demand for the US conglomerate’s luxury fragrance brands like Le Labo, Tom Ford and By Kilian offset weaker performance from its makeup and haircare divisions.
Violent protests over pay levels forced the closure of more than 500 factories over the weekend.
Former Kiehl’s general manager John Reed will lead the label, which was acquired by Roundtable Healthcare Partners earlier this year.
The Chinese beauty conglomerate’s revenue grew 29.8 percent in the latest quarter, but its profit decreased by double digits due to increased promotional expenses as it expands overseas.
Shares jumped after the group raised its annual revenue and profit forecasts and said it expected sales to return to growth.
The German sportswear business is attempting to reboot its brand appeal to better compete with larger rivals Adidas and Nike.
The Tata Group-owned business beat expectations, shoring up confidence in its fashion business after a period of sluggish performance.
Chasity Monroe has been appointed as the label’s chief executive as it undergoes a wider brand refresh.