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fashion-shows

Fashion Week

Tisci Moves on at Givenchy

Whatever zeitgeist he tapped into with his new Givenchy menswear collection it all spoke to Riccardo Tisci moving on — tiring of the Gothic darkness, looking for the positive light.


Fashion Week

A Next Level Balancing Act at Berluti

Haider Ackermann's reconciliation of discipline and indulgence at Berluti promised to be one of the highlights of the men’s week in Paris. The fact that his throngs of fans were undeterred in their adoration suggested that he managed to pull off the balancing act.


Fashion Week

Dandy Workwear at Lemaire

The Lemaire collection's boxy new proportion gave the clothes a slight, sensual slouch and the palette was all sorts of new colours for the designer.


Fashion Week

Haider Ackermann's Wild Boys

This week brings Ackermann’s debut at Berluti, the all-black invitation the very antithesis of the appetite for excess he paraded in his own collection. Maybe that’s why it felt more exaggerated than before, infused with a sense of flagrant release to counter his new more sober responsibilities.


Fashion Week

Maison Margiela's Beat Generation

The collection was a completely Margielian celebration of raw hems and unstructured classicism — keeping the house's menswear closer to the style of Martin himself.


Fashion Week

Post-Industrial Fashion at Loewe

The men’s collection Jonathan Anderson presented at Loewe looked like the detritus of a world fallen apart, reconstituted with a humanistic faith in the transformative power of the human hand. How uplifting is that?


Fashion Week

Polish and Homage at Off-White

Virgil Abloh's giant mohair picture sweaters and collaged graphic transfers paid homage to Raf Simons, with just the kind of dystopian Clockwork Orange appeal that is so relevant right now. 


Fashion Week

Controlled Chaos at Kolor

The juxtapositon of elements which is essential to the brand's vocabulary got amplified, exaggerated and even distorted. For sure it looked lively and energetic, yet sometimes it lacked the claity Abe is so good at.


Fashion Week

Hard-Edged Defiance at Dries Van Noten

There was a hard edge that was something new for Van Noten — an emphasis on strong shape rather than rich decoration. It felt defiant and that certainly felt right for now.


Fashion Week

Yohji's Punk State of Mind

The older Yohji Yamamoto gets, the punker and punker his attitude towards sartorial matters and life gets.


Fashion Week

Warlike Thoughts at Rick Owens

Rick Owens felt he’d been earnest enough with his previous collections and that it was time to wallow in beauty. But as artificial and decadent as his new forms wanted to be, they broadcast a message of protection for the hard times ahead.


Fashion Week

Issey Miyake's Humanist Conviction

Takahashi succeeds in updating and evolving the Miyake ethos and heritage, though the prints should have been edited out.