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fashion-shows

Fashion Week

A Calculated Risk at Lanvin

There were some ideas to appreciate at the Lanvin show, particularly Lucas Ossendrijver's more technical outerwear, but it was hard to see how the rest of the collection could deliver the energetic momentum that he was looking for.


Fashion Week

An Apotheosis of Buttons

This was not one of those Thom Browne presentations where the designer set out to charm or seduce or amuse his audience. It felt very much like he had a point he wanted to make as irrefutably as possible. It would have made a lot more sense as a conceptual presentation at Pitti Uomo.


Fashion Week

Elevating the Everyday in Paris

This men’s fashion season is all about getting back to reality and elevating the everyday, reports Angelo Flaccavento.


Fashion Week

A Postmodern Play at Kenzo

The Kenzo collection had panache, and rhythm, but the message got diluted in repetition.


Fashion Week

Sacai's Striking Splicing

Splicing together things she liked, the impact of the whole was much greater than the sum of the parts in Chitose Abe's Sacai collection. In fact, the randomness wasn’t even apparent, so appealing were the individual pieces.


Fashion Week

Fluid Sartorialism at Cerruti

For Cerruti's fiftieth anniversary Jason Basmajian played on some classic Nino Cerruti tropes — though the show's scope spanned perhaps too wide for comfort.


Fashion Week

Power and Precision at Acne Studios

This was one of Acne's best menswear collections so far: it looked grounded, with a twist.


Fashion Week

Junya Watanabe's Signature Mutations

Junya Watanabe's forensic eye for detail dissected and subtly reconstituted the most prosaic pieces of clothing, giving them new life.


Fashion Week

An Origin Story at Comme Des Garçons Homme Plus

Rei Kawakubo's collection was possibly one of the most provocative propositions ever from a designer who has made a career of them.


Fashion Week

Hardcore Dior Homme

Kris Van Assche has vision. The set and soundtrack proved that. But he needs to surrender fully to it — step out of the corner and onto the dance floor.


Fashion Week

Tweaked Classics at Hermès

Classic Hermès: nonchalant and classy. The lack of forward-pushing fashion was compensated by the collection's timelessness.


Fashion Week

Infinite Maximalism at Balmain

Deliberately tacky, and borderline vulgar, Balmain was also very enjoyable: a visually ebullient parade of peacocks in various states of theatrical dress up.