A Maestro's Weakness and Strength

MILAN, Italy — Fausto Puglisi is a maestro of appropriation. He has based his whole aesthetic on a bunch of unmistakable Versace tropes, which, in a way, is both a weakness and a strength. He has filled a gap in the market, that's for sure, but he has also dramatically narrowed his range of creative possibilities. Today, there was something grungy — again — and metropolitan going on amidst the usual flood of nip-waisted mini-dresses and graphic tailoring, accessorised with punky cowboy booties. There were embroidered sweatshirts, for a start, and intarsia furs worn with beanies. It felt quite fresh, honestly, but it left you wanting Puglisi to step out of his comfort zone.nd intarsia furs worn with beanies. It felt quite fresh, honestly, but it left you wanting Puglisi to step out of his comfort zone.