Yui Chen Wins Hyerès Festival’s Top Fashion Prize
The Chinese designer won the grand prize for her airy, sculptural pieces at the 41st edition of the festival, which is undergoing a revamp under new leadership.

While the luxury groups that dominate the industry staged larger and larger marketing spectacles, designers like Rick Owens, Rei Kawakubo, John Galliano and Pierpaolo Piccioli delivered poetry.

Nicolas Ghesquière said his new collection gathered together all his obsessions — one of them being “to empower women." But when he added that it was “not a narrative collection," he highlighted its simultaneous strength and weakness.

Business is booming, and this collection showed why: seriousness of purpose and commitment delivered with the lightest of touches and a sense of humour.

When the models kicked off their Perspex-heeled mules and splashed down the shoreline, it didn’t appear at all incongruous that they were wearing Chanel tweed, gold-speckled and flecked with candy-coloured dots.

The show's seaside-inflected simplicity and fluidity made for a strong collection, although its deconstructed tailoring didn't quite fit.

Maybe only a certain kind of woman can see herself in McQueen clothes, but anyone can recognise the obsessive conviction of Sarah Burton’s vision.

Cutting loose from the brand's past, Clare Waight Keller confirmed her innate compatibility with the discretion and streamlined clarity of Hubert de Givenchy’s own ethos.

The Yoko Ono-inspired collection reconciled the irreconcilable, drifting from white to intricate prints, and back, with the freshness that's marked the designer’s work of late.

Once the WTF had died down, you were left with a sense of sadness: so much exquisite work lost in what was possibly a heavily ironic takedown of the show's Hyannis Port-inflected inspiration.

The product-heavy collection was well made but lacked originality and sophistication.

The glory of Pierpaolo Piccioli’s collection was its easiness: a clear and strong vision of contemporary beauty and elegance.

The brand is not a project Demna Gvasalia will remould according to his whims. Instead, he is polishing and perfecting, refining a world.
The Chinese designer won the grand prize for her airy, sculptural pieces at the 41st edition of the festival, which is undergoing a revamp under new leadership.
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