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Fashion Week

A Next Level Balancing Act at Berluti

Haider Ackermann's reconciliation of discipline and indulgence at Berluti promised to be one of the highlights of the men’s week in Paris. The fact that his throngs of fans were undeterred in their adoration suggested that he managed to pull off the balancing act.


Fashion Week

Haider Ackermann's Wild Boys

This week brings Ackermann’s debut at Berluti, the all-black invitation the very antithesis of the appetite for excess he paraded in his own collection. Maybe that’s why it felt more exaggerated than before, infused with a sense of flagrant release to counter his new more sober responsibilities.


Fashion Week

Post-Industrial Fashion at Loewe

The men’s collection Jonathan Anderson presented at Loewe looked like the detritus of a world fallen apart, reconstituted with a humanistic faith in the transformative power of the human hand. How uplifting is that?


Fashion Week

Hard-Edged Defiance at Dries Van Noten

There was a hard edge that was something new for Van Noten — an emphasis on strong shape rather than rich decoration. It felt defiant and that certainly felt right for now.


Fashion Week

Warlike Thoughts at Rick Owens

Rick Owens felt he’d been earnest enough with his previous collections and that it was time to wallow in beauty. But as artificial and decadent as his new forms wanted to be, they broadcast a message of protection for the hard times ahead.


Fashion Week

Louis Vuitton x Supreme: A Protean New York

Integrating Supreme and Louis Vuitton was the sort of challenge Kim Jones, a long-time connoisseur of cults, was put on the planet to meet.


News & Analysis

Inside Vice’s Fashion Strategy

Following a series of fashion acquisitions, Vice co-president Andrew Creighton lays out the company’s plans to win over fashion and luxury advertisers.


Luxury

Burberry Takeover Would Be a Showstopper

Burberry remains one of the few luxury houses unencumbered by a family stake-holder. And it is expected to end its financial year to March with net cash of about £665 million ($819 million).


Retail

Do Digital Brands Need Physical Stores?

While mall staples are shuttering stores, a slew of digital brands are rushing the other way, seeing new value in physical retail.


Fashion Week

Giorgio Armani's Neo-Classics

Giorgio Armani called his collection “Neo-Classics,” but he knew the classics were all his: barely structured jackets, generously proportioned trousers, the lustre of velvet and the silvery echoes of 1930s movies.


Fashion Week

Escape Not Engagement at Alexander McQueen

Its innate costumeyness became something of an issue with this collection — each and every piece was exhibition-worthy. McQueen himself was, after all, about confronting reality.


Fashion Week

The Challenge in Repetition at Moncler Gamme Bleu

In a season particularly focused on realism, conceptual theatrics can seem a bit pointless. But Thom Browne's quilted jackets and rubber macs looked appealing way past the catwalk.