Agenda-setting intelligence, analysis and advice for the global fashion community.
According to 2025 findings from Pew Research Center, 130 million metric tonnes of plastic pollute land, water and air globally each year, with fashion waste playing a significant role.
While the majority of this waste comes from macroplastics — items such as bottles, bags and packaging — an estimated 200,000 and 500,000 tonnes of microplastics, defined as plastic particles smaller than five millimetres, enter the world’s oceans each year from textiles alone, according to research cited by the International Union for Conservation of Nature and the European Environment Agency (EEA).
Upon a synthetic-based garment’s first few wash cycles, up to 900,000 microfibres — tiny strands of plastics such as polyester and polyamide — can enter waterways, according to a 2022 study published in the International Journal of Environmental Science and Technology.
The EEA also reports that synthetic textiles account for the highest level of synthetic leaks into the ocean, making up 16 to 35 percent of all microplastics present. It is estimated that there are now a minimum of 5.25 trillion plastic particles in the world’s oceans. Some studies suggest that deep-sea sediments can contain billions of plastic microfibres per square kilometre — for example, one conservative extrapolation from Indian Ocean seamount sediment samples estimated up to 4 billion fibres per square kilometre.
Cotton Incorporated is a US not-for-profit research and marketing organisation that promotes the growth and use of cotton in the global fashion and textile supply chain through scientific research, supply chain innovation and industry marketing initiatives. The firm, which conducts extensive research on cotton’s environmental impact, positions the natural fibre as an organic solution to many of the problems derived from fashion’s use of synthetic materials.
For instance, while all garments shed fibre fragments, its research shows that cotton fibres — made of cellulose derived from the cotton plant — can biodegrade 30 to 90 percent in just 40 days in wastewater treatment environments, offering a natural alternative to the plastic pollution problem. It argues that cotton’s capability to hold its shape and withstand frequent washing gives it a longer closet life too.
The firm is also trying to refute the misconception that the growth of all cotton is water-intensive. Its research and work with cotton growers in the US shows that two-thirds of US cotton is grown using only rainfall rather than irrigation.
Through its research, Cotton Incorporated is helping companies prepare for current sustainability regulations by supporting transparency, alternative materials and circular solutions. This includes Scope 3 emissions reporting — which measures the environmental impact across a company’s entire value chain, including raw materials.
The not-for-profit oversees an average of 500 research projects annually — 400 of which are in agriculture. Its focus on optimising farming efficiencies and decreasing the use of fertilisers, pesticides and water is paralleled by its research on optimal soil conservation management practices.
Currently, textiles account for approximately 35 percent of total global PFAS demand, according to the EEA. Advanced textile finishing and fabric engineering are also central to how Cotton Incorporated is working to enhance the material’s performance.
“Environmental responsibility is embedded in our work at Cotton Incorporated,” Mary Ankeny, vice president, product development and implementation operations tells BoF. “Our researchers are reducing water, energy and chemical use through low‑water application techniques such as foam, spray and atomised finishing, while also evaluating bio‑based, petroleum‑free technologies designed to biodegrade with the fabric at end of life.”
Now, The Business of Fashion sits down with Jesse Daystar, vice president and chief sustainability officer at Cotton Incorporated to better understand its mission to champion cotton over synthetic fibres, the support and resources it provides to growers — and its efforts to reduce the environmental impact of cotton production.
What are some of the biggest challenges in scaling sustainable cotton farming practices?
Many brands have sustainability goals — as does the US cotton industry. For example, we have a clear direction to reduce greenhouse gas emissions for science-based targets. We know certain practices in the field can achieve that but interventions like cover crops often involve significant costs.
In my opinion, what really moves the needle in scaling these practices is sharing the risk. If we want to implement programmes that drive change, there needs to be a sense of shared responsibility across the supply chain. There are traceability and sustainability programmes that can help by providing resources, training and education. Implementing more regenerative agriculture practices can certainly help capture carbon, improve soil health and enhance environmental outcomes — all things brands are looking to do.
Another key area is ensuring that research, new data and tools are effectively communicated to growers. Farmers are always looking for ways to continuously improve their bottom line and environmental impact, but there is a communication hurdle. Translating science into action requires field days and direct engagement. While these are certainly challenges, we are working actively with the industry to accomplish them.
How does Cotton Incorporated work to ensure that cotton remains a sustainable choice?
We are evolving the growth and production of the material to be as efficient in every application as possible. We focus on improvement through time, getting better year over year.
At Cotton Incorporated, we have over 400 projects annually that help farming efficiency and heighten sustainability — all while battling misinformation around the crop and its growth. Our data support that and we are actively communicating our findings.
Cotton ages very well compared to synthetics — meaning you can stretch the lifecycle of your garments.
Today, we’re improving environmental outcomes and agronomic [the term for dealing with field-crop production and soil management] outcomes — while reducing the amount of inputs coming off the field. We provide our findings and data for the supply chain so that all elements of production come back to sustainable and regulatory compliance.
How does cotton compare to synthetic garments?
Cotton is not accumulating in the world the way plastic is. The apparel industry is really coming to terms with the issue of microfibers, particularly synthetic microfibers. We had a landmark study that quantified the amount of plastic that gets into the environment from the apparel industry. It’s quite large at 8.3 million metric tonnes, with 7.4 million metric tonnes coming from polyester or synthetics.
While cotton still deposits microfibres, we know that it biodegrades in the environment — unlike synthetics. For instance in freshwater, wastewater and saltwater environments cotton degrades within 15 to 90 days. As an anchor of reference, it often breaks down at a rate similar to an oak leaf.
Our research with North Carolina State University demonstrates dyed and finished cotton also breaks down. Sometimes the finishes and the dyes will speed it up, and sometimes they might slow it down just a bit, but on average across the different chemistries we applied, it was about the same. It’s very hard to get plastics out of the water or the environment, but cotton does not have that problem.
What are the key performance and lifecycle benefits of cotton that brands should consider when making material choices?
Durability is of utmost importance — particularly as manufacturing typically presents the majority of the environmental impacts.
Cotton ages very well compared to synthetics — meaning you can stretch the lifecycle of your garments. It also pulls carbon dioxide from the atmosphere. Plus, the rural economic livelihood of the crop is significant: the growth of the plant supports over 100 million families around the world according to the International Cotton Advisory Committee.
What’s more, cotton is commonly recycled and because it is a plant, it can be composted — which we’ve demonstrated in several publications working with Cornell University. We are also looking at whether we could keep that carbon out of the atmosphere by turning waste textiles into more durable carbon products like biochar [a form of charcoal intended for organic use in soil]. That could present a net negative: meaning through cotton you can clean production emissions by sequestering carbon.
What role can cotton play in helping brands build circular fashion models that still meet consumer expectations for quality, durability and sustainability?
Sustainability has to be approached holistically – and our research shows that cotton offers several viable pathways to circularity. If a brand uses recycled materials but significantly reduces the quality or lifespan of a product, the outcome may not be sustainable at all. The goal is to apply circular solutions in the right way, at the right levels and in the right products.
As an organisation, we aim to act as a trusted source of data and knowledge in this space. Our research helps identify where circular approaches — including recycled cotton — can be most effective, and where other solutions may deliver better environmental outcomes.
We work to help brands implement circular strategies without compromising quality or performance, guiding them on how to incorporate recycled materials and circular practices in ways that maintain the durability and integrity of the garment. Textile-to-textile recycling is one option for brands — and we’re actively exploring approaches such as composting and finding ways to repurpose waste into new garments or other textile products.
How do you convince a mass-market retailer to absorb the margin hit of switching from synthetics to cotton?
When you think about price, businesses obviously need to operate sustainably in order to produce and sell products. But it’s also important to consider some of the underlying dynamics in the market. In many cases, the cost of synthetic fibres appears relatively low, which can artificially drive down prices.
The goal is to apply circular solutions in the right way, at the right levels and in the right products.
However, the broader environmental costs associated with synthetics — such as microplastics entering our waterways and even our bodies — are not currently reflected in the raw material price. As regulation increases and our understanding of these impacts improves, those hidden costs may eventually be factored into the equation.
When you take a longer-term view of cost, the comparison becomes more balanced. Cotton has several advantages in that context. As we continue to improve its sustainability profile, the value it offers brands becomes clearer. In many cases, those benefits can also be communicated to consumers, creating additional brand and market advantages.
What are some of the most promising innovations you see emerging that could reduce cotton’s environmental footprint further?
There is field-wide innovation looking at drought tolerance and how to do more with less. For instance, new developments allow you to apply only the right amount of fertilizer in specific places.
We are also working with Dr. Ed Barnes at Cotton Incorporated, who is leading several projects on implementing automation and robotics in the field. This involves rethinking certain aspects of engineering, especially as AI becomes more prevalent. We are developing tools to use AI to analyse agronomic data across the field to understand how to optimise processes, lower costs and reduce environmental impacts while maximising yield.
We are looking at how we might capture carbon from waste products like cotton stalks that are typically left in the field. This presents an opportunity to pull carbon dioxide out of the atmosphere and store it long-term, creating further environmental benefits. This could be a game-changer once achieved commercially — whether through composting or capturing carbon at the end of the product life cycle, as well as reducing greenhouse gas emissions throughout production.
No matter what these innovations present, we are going to measure and report those improvements to ensure cotton continues to be seen as a climate-rated fibre.
This is a sponsored featured paid for by Cotton Incorporated as part of a BoF partnership.
