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fashion-shows

Fashion Week

At Marni, A Work in Progress

Francesco Risso’s debut could be taken as a deliberate statement of dissociation from his adored predecessor, but it was obtuse to a fault.


Fashion Week

A Botanist and a Dancer at Antonio Marras

The collection was controlled yet exuberant — Antonio Marras has found his balance and it shows.


Fashion Week

A Healthy Dose of Spontaneity at Ermanno Scervino

Fresh, svelte and ultimately captivating, the Scervino show marked a well-deserved departure from a staid and dusty ladylike corner.


Fashion Week

The Missoni March

There was a pussy-eared beanie on every seat as Angela Missoni incited the fashion industry to stand unified and strong. Missoni was always going to be one of those propositions whose time would come again.


Fashion Week

Twisted Innocence at Philosophy di Lorenzo Serafini

Lorenzo Serafini offset 1950s sweetness with Mod rebellion to charming, if rather predictable effect.


Fashion Week

At Jil Sander, Corporate Realness

Rodolfo Paglialunga’s difficult tenure at Jil Sander has seen ebb and flow.


Fashion Week

Weaponised Glamour at Bottega Veneta

When Joan Smalls sashayed down the runway in a column of moonlight, you wondered if Tomas Maier isn’t just too damn grown-up for this crazy world of fashion.


Fashion Week

Marco de Vincenzo’s Deranged Sophistication

This collection was one of Marco de Vincenzo’s best so far. Like Lagerfeld at Fendi he understands playfulness and class.


Fashion Week

An Urban Tingle at Etro

The stress on functionality felt new for Etro, even if its Paisley tribe was as visually complacent, maximalist and rich as ever.


Fashion Week

At Versace, Aspiration and Uplift

Donatella Versace is doing the thing she knows best: masterminding collections of clothing that embody aspiration and uplift.


Fashion Week

Changing Tides at Emporio Armani

Giorgio Armani’s message was diluted by the variety of his offer. Clashes and contrasts are more effective when they are edited severely.


Fashion Week

The Bally Club

A vague ‘gentlemen’s club’ theme framed the season’s eclectic leather-goods, yet the brand’s ‘fashion’ message lacked coherence with its heritage.