Frasers Group Steps Up Luxury Push With New Division, Larger Burberry Stake
The British retail group has brought its stakes in Burberry, Hugo Boss and Mulberry together with its luxury retail operations.

Alessandro Michele thrives on a kind of timeless overload, and there is no other designer who embraces huge, difficult ideas with such enthusiasm.

The show worked as an antidote to the gigantism of Armani’s Emporio presentation at Linate Airport. Here was something much more internal and delicate, recalling the neurological condition synaesthesia.

Francesco Risso’s work for the Italian brand has so far been a protean proposal, glorying the great unfinished, but there was more discipline, in his latest designs.

Angela Missoni looked to the future to celebrate the family business' 65th anniversary. The collection had a distinctly intergalactic, feet-off-the-ground sparkle.

Creative director Paul Surridge clearly knows what he wants to communicate, but it’s almost as though the language he’s compelled to use is holding him back.

Philosophy di Lorenzo Serafini and Ermanno Scervino delivered collections that were full of beautiful clothing but light on meaning.

For their sophomore outing, Paul Andrew and Guillaume Meilland wisely stuck to the codes they are trying to establish at Ferragamo but next season could do with a little surprise.

In a world turning darker by the day, Etro, Sportmax, Marco de Vincenzo and Massimo Giorgetti all turned to forms of escapism — surfing, childhood memories and dreams — with varying degrees of success.

The mix didn’t always work. But when it did, it was testament to Donatella’s ongoing confidence in making Versace her own.

The entertainment level was high and the floaty, deconstructed pieces really stood out, but the label is still missing the sense of cool it radiated in its 90s heyday.

Miuccia turned her show into an intricate confrontation between liberation and conservatism, resulting in the most intense collection of the season to date.

The house's signature use of fur was still present, but there was the underlying sense of the brand adjusting to a shift in the fashion climate.
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