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The Business of Fashion

fashion-shows

Fashion Week

At Berluti, Mixed Messages

The collection was freewheeling but lacking cohesion. A few more months of study might help Kris Van Assche hone his recipe.

Fashion Week

Searching for Heroes at Dries Van Noten

The collection felt a little over-familiar — a statement that was strong without being particularly bold, minus the arcana that has always been his special spice.

Fashion Week

Rick Owens’s Vibrant Elegy

As much as lust, vice and Larry LeGaspi have worked their dissolute magic on the designer, here he acknowledged that with age has come responsibility.

Fashion Week

Inside Rochas’ Menswear Reboot

Federico Curradi talks to Angelo Flaccavento ahead of his debut as menswear creative director of Rochas this Saturday.

Fashion Week

JW Anderson's Sly Sophistication at Work

There was a pleasing randomness to it all, like the people wearing the clothes were aware of civilization only in the most random way. It was Anderson to a T — and he did himself proud.

Fashion Week

Decadent Distractions at Valentino

Pierpaolo Piccioli, one of the most interesting designers in fashion at the moment, delivered the kind of hybrid design which embodies fashion’s enduringly mysterious appeal.

Fashion Week

Virgil Abloh’s Louis Vuitton: From The Wizard to The Wiz

The designer’s second presentation for the French megabrand was a carefully considered, Michael Jackson-inspired powerhouse, built layer upon layer with the kind of shameless manipulation that characterizes the greatest showmen.

Fashion Week

Yohji Yamamoto's Romantic Renegades

At the Japanese master's latest show, something was different: his trademark volumes were more firm than fluid as his posse of poète maudits took a militaristic turn.

Fashion Week

Vetements Does Vetements

Fashion moved on, but Demna Gvasalia stuck to his formula. Thursday's celebration of juvenile rebellion felt oddly relevant now that the pendulum has swung back to formality.

Fashion Week

Menswear Gets a Platform at Givenchy

Of course there had to be sportswear, but the real action was in the elongated, elegant tailoring that created a flamboyant, louche and a bit rebellious character Clare Waight Keller will surely build on.

Fashion Week

A New Formality and Its Opposite

Fumito Ganryu twisted fashion’s new formality in a progressive direction, while Acne Studios mounted a counter-current and Ami stuck to bourgeois nonchalance, reports Angelo Flaccavento.

Fashion Week

What’s Next for Streetwear?

In Paris, Virgil Abloh explored sartorialism with a preconception-defying collection for Off-White, while Heron Preston’s first runway show wrote sustainability — and security theatre — into his take on streetwear.

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