Americana Sells. Why Are Brands Afraid of Celebrating America?

America is in a moment of whiplash.

Despite internal political turmoil and a diminished reputation abroad, Americana fashion is perhaps more relevant than ever, from cowboy boots and workwear to the return of traditional Ivy League prep. Interest in Americana from search terms such as “western,” “varsity,” and “American flag” increased five-fold since 2022, reaching a peak this summer, according to data from Lyst. Ralph Lauren’s focus on its American identity, for instance, has helped it outperform much of the luxury sector, with sales up 15 percent in its most recent fiscal year, driven by double-digit growth in Asia and Europe.

Americana’s resurgence reflects fashion’s broader turn toward nostalgia and heritage, with consumers embracing American style codes as symbols of craftsmanship and durability while offering an alternative to a European luxury market struggling to feel fresh.

But despite their commercial success, the biggest labels that have built their identity around Americana, are mostly staying quiet for America’s 250th. Ralph Lauren, along with Tommy Hilfiger-owner PVH, J.Crew, Gap, L.L. Bean and other major retailers have continued to expand their signature Americana assortments while eschewing any major marketing fanfare around the national milestone. Last month, Ralph Lauren released a collection of commemorative stamps for the US Postal Service. Online, Tommy Hilfiger is the only among the few brands explicitly merchandising to Americana, promoting a “Classic American Cool” assortment on its homepage.

There’s good reason to tread carefully. Adopting overt displays of nationalism may be perceived as an endorsement of Trump’s unpopular geopolitics or particular brand of theatrical patriotism, such as turning the White House lawn into a wrestling arena in celebration of the 250th.

In an era of culture wars and consumer boycotts, brands are hyper-aware of how easy it is to alienate shoppers.

To be sure, business has been just fine. With or without commemorating the 250th, major American retailers are and have continued to welcome their American identities, said retail analyst Dana Telsey, pointing to Ralph Lauren’s frequent role in the Olympics and Levi’s participation in the Super Bowl (which took place at its branded stadium in February).

But avoiding the connection between Americana style and their American identity may be a missed opportunity. Among young progressive consumers, there is a growing appetite to strip away the partisan baggage from the American flag and other symbols, and once again embrace the markings of America as a shared cultural language.

“Maybe that seems counterintuitive to have so many people focused on utilising the American flag or hyper-American themes, but I think the opposite,” said designer Emily Bode. “I think it allows you to be unified with your American identity, and with everybody regardless of political divide.”

Paying tribute to the national milestone doesn’t have to be pure celebration. Some of America’s most influential young designers, including Bode, Raul Lopez, Tremaine Emory and Willy Chavarria have long explored the country’s history and contradictions through their work.

“The American flag can be meaningful in two different ways — the beautiful and the brutal,” said Emory, the designer behind Denim Tears and former creative director of Supreme. “You can wear it and feel proud and still acknowledge the negative things that contributed to that symbol.”

What does selling Americana look like in 2026? Read or listen to the full article here.

By Cathaleen Chen

Go Deeper:

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TWIF: Chanel Acquires Charvet, Saks Rebrands, Marc Jacobs

Who’s up and down in the business of fashion, luxury and beauty this week.

1. After a buzzy runway collaboration with Matthieu Blazy, Chanel has bought Charvet as longtime owner-operators Anne-Marie and Jean-Claude Colban seek a succession plan.

2. Designer Marc Jacobs again presented a stripped-back collection in his first show after LVMH announced the sale of his namesake brand to WHP Global and G-III Apparel Group.

3. Spanish footwear brand Camper has purchased a 60 percent stake in niche sandal-maker Ancient Greek Sandals in its first major acquisition. The terms of the deal were undisclosed.

4. Former Audemars Piguet chief François-Henri Bennahmias has secured investment to launch new brand N3W5 selling mechanical watches starting at 20,000 Swiss francs.

5. Saks Global has rebranded as Exemplar Luxury Group as it attempts to open a new chapter and hold itself accountable to a higher standard with brands, consumers and employees.

6. Nike reported stagnant sales as CEO Elliot Hill’s nearly ⁠two-year turnaround effort struggles to clear out excess inventory and revamp product ‌innovation.

Catch up on all the news of the week in fashion, luxury and beauty here.