Paris Fashion Week: A Debut and a Finale or Two?

Paris Fashion Week kicks off on Monday. On the agenda are industry heavyweights Chanel, Dior and Louis Vuitton, as well as design debuts at Courrèges and Carven, and the latest outings from Michael Rider’s Celine and Glenn Martens’ Maison Margiela. But some insiders may be paying closest attention to Saint Laurent and Balenciaga for any signs that creative change is on the way as owner Kering undergoes a broad restructuring led by CEO Luca de Meo.

Here is a rundown of what to look for at some of the key shows of the week:

Saint Laurent on Sept. 29 at 9 pm:

Amid signs that designer Anthony Vaccarello is departing after a decade-long run at the Parisian fashion house, Tuesday’s show has become an even hotter ticket than usual. Vaccarello has boosted the label’s profile, capturing imaginations with his glamourous interpretation of the Parisian style – shown at night, on striking sets under a glittering Eiffel Tower, adding to the drama of his silhouettes. But while business has tripled since his arrival, the brand has not been immune to the wider drop off in demand for luxury goods and is struggling to reignite sales growth.

Vaccarello will be awarded the CFDA’s international designer of the year at a ceremony in November. The prize, along with a July profile in Vanity Fair and September appearance on Bella Freud’s podcast “Fashion Neurosis” are beginning to look like victory laps. Vaccarello’s contract is said to go until early next year, so the verdict is likely still out on whether he stays or goes. For the moment, the bigger issue at Saint Laurent may be how the designer’s vision is merchandised.

Balenciaga on Oct. 1 at 2 pm:

The stakes are particularly high at Kering stablemate Balenciaga this season. The fashion house has been dogged with questions over its strategic direction since Pierpaolo Piccioli took the reins from former designer Demna last year. Piccioli has worked to retain fans of Demna’s Balenciaga, lean into the codes set by founder Cristóbal and please the red carpet set that followed Piccioli from his previous job at Valentino, all while expanding into sportswear. Did executives order a pizza with too many toppings? Thursday’s show could tamp down suggestions that change is on the way or help justify another round of renewal. Either way, a clearer steer from management may be what the brand needs most.

Courrèges on Sept. 30 at 10:30 am:

A new chapter unfolds at Courrèges on Wednesday, with designer Drew Henry’s runway debut. Bringing experience from Burberry, Celine and Phoebe Philo, Henry is stepping into the shoes of Nicolas di Felice who steered the label’s Space Age DNA into fresh territory, winning new fans. The challenge for Henry will be to build on that momentum, likely with limited resources, as the Pinault family, which owns the label via holding company Artémis, remains preoccupied with Kering’s revival.

Maison Margiela on Sept 29 at 5:30 pm:

Glenn Martens wrapped up his tenure at Diesel with a steamy show in Milan last week, so his focus will no longer be split between two, very different OTB-owned houses. His nascent tenure at Maison Margiela has drawn much critical praise and a measure of controversy — see those disturbing four-stitched mouth pieces from Spring/Summer 2026. Freed up to concentrate on one fashion house, will Martens hit his stride?

Céline on Oct 3 at 12:00 pm:

Fresh off a breakthrough first-ever menswear show in June, Michael Rider’s upcoming women’s outing is certain to draw attention. Over the summer, the designer energised a heat-weary audience with styles that were slightly off-kilter – pushing the brand towards the centre of the fashion conversation. How will the burst of novelty translate to his womenswear collection?